On August 29, 2005-a date that will
live in infamy-the city of New Orleans, Louisiana, was suddenly, if not
deliberately attacked by natural forces in the forms of Hurricane’s Katrina and
Rita. The “infamy” involved in this tragic set of circumstances proved, at
least in part, to be in the responses (or lack thereof) of federal, state and
local officials to the resulting tragedy.
In short, the bureaucrats and fat cats dropped the ball; and
Joe and Jane Average ended up paying for the piss-poor planning and lack of
foresight on the part of their local and federal officials.
The New Orleans I once lived in no longer exists; except in
my fading memories and, I suspect, in the memories of all of us who are now a
part of the vast New Orleans Diaspora. I count myself among them even though,
strictly speaking, I am more of an expatriate. I’ve heard it said that “you
can’t go home again,” and that “you can never step in the same river twice.” If
these maxims hold true, then so it is with the land of my nativity, the city
that I called home for nearly 30 years of my life.
How
easily it seems that “The City That Care Forgot” and that the rest of the
country remembered during Mardi Gras, the Essence Festival, Jazz Fest and any
given Super Bowl Sunday that occurred in the now renovated and re-christened
Mercedes-Benz Superdome, became “The City that the rest of the country Forgot
to Care About” when the levees failed. Those of us from New Orleans don’t have
the luxury of that particular bit of selective memory.
It could
be that the city that I once lived in was fading into to distant memory long
before Katrina and Rita came along, and that was one of the reasons I left;
maybe I’m just waxing nostalgic now. Being the sensual place that it was, I
suppose New Orleans has always existed, in part, as more of a sensory
experience for me than as an actual location. My memories of the place always
involved something I deeply and vividly saw, heard, smelled, tasted or felt;
and when it comes to stimulating those
senses there are few, if any cities (in the United States at least) that could
hold a candle to The Big Easy.
For some
the city represents a fun getaway…where you can literally “get-away” with doing
and saying things you wouldn’t dare to do or say anywhere else. For some it
represents the frustrating, and apparently inherent ineptitude of the
Napoleonic Laws that permeate Louisiana politics; for some it represents the
apparent corruption of our local politicians and law enforcement officials, as
made infamous in the movie from which the city derived one of its more colorful
nicknames.
I
remember living Uptown at one time, between Tchoupitoulas and Magazine Street.
I lived within walking distance of a Canal Villere Supermarket and a famous
local music hall named Tipitina's. One night I was even treated to an impromptu
sidewalk serenade at Tipitina's when the immortal Lady T, Ms. Teena-Marie
performed one of her famous concerts there. I say "impromptu sidewalk
serenade" because Lady T sold it out of course, and according to the Fire
Marshall, wasn’t ‘nobody else getting up in there!
As far as I’m concerned New Orleans is not just a place,
it’s a state of mind, body, heart and soul.
I
remember one of the last times I went back home, prior to Katrina, my Dad took
my brothers and I on a road trip to the Houma/Thibodeaux area of Louisiana; these
were the rural cities where his side of my family, and my Mom’s side originated;
and the places we respectfully referred to as “The Country.”
“I’m
gonna show ya’ll the house where I was born.” He had said.
In
spite of the fact that he had been largely absent during my upbringing, I
idolized my Dad, and I was looking forward to seeing the place where the man,
the myth and the legend originated. I was somewhat nonplussed, however, when we
reached our destination.
My Dad got out of his truck and
gestured at the place with a sweep of his hand, then stood staring silently.
Along with my younger siblings, I got out and beheld what basically amounted to
an abandoned and decaying pile of something that used to be a house, but was
now a vine covered ruin. We could see
that my Dad was experiencing something on some deep, emotional level that he
couldn’t quite articulate, so we remained respectfully silent, even as we
exchanged furtive, quizzical glances with one another.
For
me New Orleans represents an ancestral home; the place where my grandparents
are buried, along with my great-grandparents, all the way back to my maternal
ancestor Joseph Champagne, my sandy-blonde haired, blue-eyed three times great
grandfather, the son of a former slave and her former owner. So in a sense, I
suppose what the loss of my city represents most to me is a loss of a sense of
history and belonging.
Just
like the biblical Abraham with his son Isaac, or Moses and his son Gershom, I
too feel as if I am a stranger in a strange land; and I am raising my son in a
place that is not his father’s ancestral home. That wouldn’t bother me so much,
were it not for the fact that the place this his father remembers no longer
exists; and I feel as if there is not now, nor will there be in the near
future, a place to which I may one day travel in order to instill in my son a
sense of identity, pride and familial history.
Damn.
Dad,
I think I know what you were going through now….
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